I went to a restaurant for dinner at 10pm. It was completely empty and I thought I had missed dinner time. Wrong. People didn´t start coming in for dinner until 11. And these were families with young children. I can´t imagine what time twenty somethings show up for dinner. The food was incredable. For 11 Euros you get half a liter of wine, an appetizer, entree and dessert. For my appetizer I had mashed potatoes cooked in the fat of Chorizo and sprinkled with fried bits of pig spine on top. Sounds disgusting – tasted amazing. Pretty much every meal dish has some part of a pig in it. Oink oink!
After dinner I walked around the plaza. The plaza is lined with restaurants with outdoor sitting. In every other country I´ve visited, musicians wander around the restaurants playing for small change. Not in Salamanca. At each restaurant a troup of musicians, dressed in elaborate costumes, take over a bunch of tables and play for the whole night. People will give up their tables and hold their plates of food so that a musician can have more room to play. Crowds form around the restaurants to watch these musicions and they throw euros at them. It must be very lucrative for them.
At one restaurant the musicians asked for the crowd to sacrifice a beautiful woman. The crowd pushed a woman forward and she had to stand on top of a table while they all serenaded her. She was beet red. But the most surprising thing was that once they were done she gave the conductor a big wet kiss on the lips!
The city is beautiful during the day, but it´s breathtaking at night. They really know how to light their buildings:
This morning I took a tour with the school. There´s a tradition that if you can find the frog on the fasçade of the old University you´ll get married in a year. I´ve been there twice already, and I still can´t find it. However, I did find the astronaut carved into the fasçade of the new church! The new church was built in the 1700s (which gives you some perspective on how old these buildings are) but when they were restoring it in the 1970´s someone snuck in an astronaut holding an ice cream cone. I hope God has a sense of humor!
Classes seem really short. I signed up for 30 hours a week but we take 30 minute breaks every 2 hours and an hour and a half break for lunch so I feel like I´m barely ever in class. But the locals are really nice and love to talk to foreigners, so I´m still learning a lot. I´m off to get some mid-day sangria. It´s cheaper than water here!